Hooded eyes hide the lid when open, so lash work has to lift the corner rather than add bulk in the centre. This guide covers curl choice, length mapping and the specifications worth stocking.
Why Hooded Eyes Need Their Own Specification
A hooded lid folds over the lash line when the eye is open. Density that works on an almond eye will read as a heavy black band here, and the natural lash sits closer to the lid, so fan weight is felt sooner. The correction is geometric: shorter inner corner, stronger lift at the outer third, and a curl family that clears the fold instead of curling into it.
Curl: C and D Before CC
C curl keeps the result wearable for everyday salon clients; D curl gives the outer corner the elevation a hooded lid needs. CC is often assumed to be the compromise, but on a heavy fold it reads as neither lifted nor natural. Stock C and D before adding CC to the range.
Length Mapping
Keep the inner third at 8-9mm, the centre at 9-10mm and build to 11-12mm at the outer third. Anything past 13mm on a hooded eye drops the corner and closes the shape. If a client asks for length, add it on the outer third only, and drop a half millimetre everywhere else to keep the balance.
Fan Density
3D to 6D covers most hooded-eye services. Above 6D the fan base starts to show when the lid folds and the set reads as a solid line. Use a tapered point or short stem base so the bond sits flat against the lash rather than lifting into the fold.
What to Approve Before You Stock It
Run a sample set on a hooded-eyed model, photograph it with the eye open and closed, and check retention at the two-week mark. Hooded clients rub the lid more, so retention is the number that decides whether the specification works in the field. Confirm your supplier can repeat the same curl retention across batches before committing a range.
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